We had no idea what to expect. We knew we'd find ice eventually (the guidebook calls it about six ice pitches to the top of the route - after the initial approach slog - via the conventional exit). We just weren't sure where. Finally we broke out on some low-angled ice and mixed rock-steppy, snicey⁹ what-have-you. Here Brian moves through a section which, in fuller conditions, is probably the first full ice pitch.

Soon we found ourselves in an increasingly exposed postion, climbing up over short snow and ice steps mixed with loose rock. We could see the apron leading to the first ice pitch that we would belay. We agreed to stop, rope up and build a belay as soon as we found a suitable place (read: flat enough) to get our harnesses on and flake our ropes. We could see what we thought was a succession of flattish ledges just up the gully. We proceeded soloing up to them over relatively casual but steepening terrain.

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⁹Snow + ice = snice. Also, snow + rain = snain.