New England Ice Climbing, 7-9 January 2000

Don Bensman and myself on the summit of Mt. Willard. Willey's Slide, where we climbed and Don fell the first day, is visible between us in the background.

Don, an underwater construction worker, was one of the biggest characters I've ever met. He'd never been on ice before, but had some rock climbing experience. I benefitted from his knowledge of gear and anchors, and I enjoyed his sense of humor. Don hung out an extra day and went climbing with Robert at Frankenstein Cliff. They were on the second pitch of Standard Route when a climber on lead nearby caught a daisy chain in his crampons and took a sick fall, ultimately breaking a leg. Don and Robert downclimbed and helped drag the guy out. That was the end of their day. Certainly underscores the seriousness of climbing ice. The consequences of a fall can be far greater than rock or snow.

I hope to climb with Robert again. I had planned to return to the Whites later this winter to climb some of the classic alpine gullies on Mt. Washington, specifically Pinnacle Gully with Robert, but it turns out neither of our schedules are going to allow it. But hopefully we'll see one another again in the hills someday.

Other than the flu keeping me down, the trip was great, and I learned a lot. One more piece in the alpine climbing puzzle.