Mt. Hood Climb: 18 June 2000
South Side Route
...And then I reached the top of the chute, and things changed. They changed in a big way. They changed when I approached the top of the steep section leading to the summit and finally looked up.

The shot above shows the last 50 feet or so of the chute. The summit is about 100 feet above Jeff H., visible on the left, and Brett, on the right. What Brett is doing in this photo changed the climb for me. It was a simple thing, but a profound one.

Brett is belaying Jeff H. and I using a boot-axe belay (a belay is used by a climber to guard against or break a fall, either using a mechanical device or by using natural protection, on a mountain). This is a common and very simple and effective way of protecting your climbing partners from a fall in an alpine environment. Honestly, Brett probably didn't need to belay Jeff H. or I in this situation, but the fact that he did belay us speaks volumes about so many, many things.

What Brett is doing here is the essence of climbing. He is taking responsibility for, and most importantly, caring for, his climbing partners. It occurred to me at that moment, that this is why I climb. Above all, I climb for companionship. And not to be melodramatic, but when you tie in to a rope to protect one anothers' lives... it's just a very strong bond.

The last 200 vertical feet of the climb on Mt. Hood was some of the sweetest climbing I've ever experienced. It's not a hard climb, but it was a very meaningful one for me, one on which everything came together perfectly. I've found often that I enjoy those last 100 or so feet leading up to the summit, when you know that you will reach your goal, but you allow yourself to savor the last feet up; I've found these sections of mountains to be more rewarding and memorable than many actual summits. I know I will always remember this climb for that almost-there-but-not-quite section of the mountain.

I climb to be with people like Brett Nipps, Jeff Huber and Jeff Keeney - to be with people like Em Holland and Bruce Bindner. And I climb to have been with people like John Miksits and Craig Hiemstra, even if I never really got the chance. I climb to be with people who love the mountains and the freedom and elation we all feel there.

That, among myriad other inexpressable reasons, is why I climb.

«prev | next»