New England Ice, 24-26 January 2002
Desperate But Not Serious

Oh no! Here they come
The members of the deadbeat club
-B-52's

Above we see Cinema Gully (NEI 2) on Mt. Willard, under attack. We counted 137 climbers, 74 belay stations and 3" of untouched ice on the route at 10am. By 11am it was just a dry pebble with men in crampons pushing one another off its top, like cows on a manure pile playing a very serious game of king of the hill.

On our last day we had several options.

Dignan: Okay. Just hear me out. It's called Hinckley Cold Storage. Here are just a few of the key ingredients: dynamite, pole-vaulting, laughing gas, choppers. Can you see how incredible this is going to be? Hang-gliding... Come on!

We were considering the following:

  1. A ski tour of some sort. We had brought skis as a backup plan, but we really wanted to climb.
  2. A gully route on Mt. Webster. I was very concerned about avalanche hazard, as it had snowed all night and the report from Mt. Washington had forecast considerable danger. I knew the gullies, while desireable, would be loaded. It would also prove to be very warm, increasing the risk.
  3. Any reasonably accessed route, snow or ice, that was in. Hold it. One more condition: the route must be uncrowded.

We couldn't bring ourselves to seriously consider #1. Number two sounded like a great time but a potentially very dumb idea. The third option was the frontrunner, but the last bit about crowds would be tough. It was Saturday, and folks were getting terribly impatient with the conditions. We decided to try Streamline (NEI 2), a long, multipitch snow and ice route that follows a streambed originating in Willey Brook up to a col between Mts. Willey and Willard.

We should have known what we were getting into when we saw temps in Jackson. 47F. This is very, very warm, folks. This is too warm to be climbing ice. If there is any ice.

We did the drive, once again, to Crawford Notch, took the last space in the pullout, got our gear together, then began the walk in over the tracks. It was in the high 30s in the Notch. We had seen a party of two head out just in front of us. About fifteen minutes later we saw them coming back our way. When our paths crossed, they asked us if we were headed to do Cinema.

"Nope," we say. "You?"
"Mobbed," the two men say, shaking their heads in disgust. "And it's too warm. I think we're going to go do a hike."

Brian and I were all over it. I barely beat him to it:
"Well-if-you're-looking-for-an-ice-climb-we-can-most-assuredly-
tell-you-that-Hitchcock-Gully-is-in-in-in-why-just-yesterday-we-
climbed-it-and-the-first-pitch-is-like-it-always-is-you-know-a-bit-thin-
but-doable-and-then-the-second-pitch-is-just-fantastic-fat-thunker-ice-
and-you-really-should-if-you're-considering-climbing-you-really-should-
give-it-a-try-and-the-approach-is-just-fine-and-well-kicked-out-and-
what-a-great-day-it-was-and-can-and-will-be-for-you-if-you'll-just-give-
that-sweet-little-aim-to-please-route-a-chance."

The two guys looked like they didn't believe us. So we restated our points, they looked at us again sort of cross-eyed, then turned around and looked like they were going to give it a go.

And the point is: it was so nice to be of some use for a change.

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